From: John De Armond
Subject: Re: Spare or Not
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 22:12:50 -0500
On 15 Jan 2005 00:18:21 GMT, email@example.com (Janet Wilder) wrote:
>I don't think Lon is foolish. Though we have a spare for the trailer, we don't
>have one for the truck. If we did, we'd not be able to lift it as the tires are
>22.5" like those on a motorhome. We ( spitting 3 times over my left shoulder,
>knocking on wood and uttering incantations against the evil eye) haven't had a
>flat on the truck yet. We have road service that will come with a tire.
Here's a tip for when you find yourself someday having to change a big
tire. Jack the vehicle to match the tire. That is, roll the tire up to
the axle, then operate the jack and turn the axle until the holes match
up. Lean the tire over toward the axle, engaging the top couple of studs.
Put at least one lug nut on if you can. Jack up the vehicle a little
until the tire clears the ground. It will pivot in nicely onto the axle,
engaging the rest of the studs. Put the lug nuts on and let the vehicle
back down to the ground.
The most effort required with this method is raising the tire to the
vertical. Even a small person can do that.
I've changed many a semi tire using this method and I certainly wouldn't
even attempt to lift one.
From: John De Armond
Subject: Re: Spare or Not
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 18:03:47 -0500
On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 16:26:48 GMT, "Jim Corey" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>I have a 91 Class A Southwind, Ford Chassis. I have a spare tire/wheel.
>Everyone should, shouldn't they? The spare is heavy, and takes space that I
>covet for other uses. I would probably never change the tire myself, but
>would call ERS. The spare is suited only for the front. In my 20+ years of
>motorhoming, I have never had the occasion to need a spare. I have had
>blowouts (twice) over the years on one the rear dualies, but was able to
>limp to a tire shop in both cases. Does anyone travel naked (sans spare)?
I never travel without one. I've had 2 punctures on my MH. One, a
roofing nail. I could keep that tire pumped up enough to get to a service
station to have my new one installed. The second was caused by a 3/8"
bolt. Too big a hole to plug so the tire was trashed (I don't do inside
patches!) I used my USAA ERS plan to have my spare mounted in that
Before I got a clue and bought the correct size tires and wheels for my
rig I had 5 tread separation/blowouts. In all but one case, ERS replaced
the blown tire with the spare. That one time the spare was also bad. Not
willing to get raped for the cost of a road side tire changeout, I had the
rig towed to a tire store where I overnighted until it opened the next
morning. The replacement tire which I paid about $85 for from my friendly
local tire dealer cost me over $120 at this place. Yep, the saw me coming
but I had little choice, as a tow to another store would have cost more.
I view a spare the same as I view spare fanbelts, hoses, and so on. Sure
I can get any of these on the road but if I carry my own I know that I
have quality pieces that I bought in times of calm instead of in an
I also carry the necessary tools to change a tire with. A 20 ton jack and
aluminum pavement plate, an electric impact wrench, a X type lug wrench
and stand. I use the lug wrench to crack loose each nut and the impact to
run them off and back on. I may never use them but they're there if I
Anyone, even a 100 lb weakling, can break loose a lug nut with the proper
setup. Mine consists of a large trucker's X type wrench and a stand on
which to support the other end. I can put the wrench on the nut, rest the
other end on the stand, then jump on one arm of the wrench. For those who
can't jump, standing and bouncing will work.
My stand is compact and simple. Lay a piece of 2X4 or 2X6 on the ground.
Stand up another piece to make an inverted T. Fasten the two together
with a heavy hinge so that the vertical one will lay down for storage.
With the vertical one in place, drill through the bottom piece and into
the vertical one so that a large bolt, say 1/2", can be inserted to keep
the vertical piece in place. Select the length of the vertical board to
be about the height of the lower lug nut when the wheel is on the jack.
Drill a hole through the vertical piece such that the end of the lug
wrench will pass through.
To use, simply erect the vertical piece, insert the bolt in the bottom to
lock it in place, put it on the ground, put the lug wrench on the nut,
then slip the stand over the other end. Make sure it's steady then jump
or bounce on the appropriate wrench arm. That would normally be the left
one facing the tire unless you have left hand threads.