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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flat Drive Belts
From: Robert Bastow <>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:28:47 GMT

Tony wrote:
> I didn't put much info about the Alligator clips on my site because I don't
> use them. What would I do with all my nice clipper machines?
> Any pin of suitable diameter will do, use whatever is handy if you don't
> have any of the nylon coated pins. Wire brads work ok, drill rod, weedwacker
> string perhaps.
> --
> Tony
> Visit TonysToolroom for Surplus Stuff for sale
> and my Precision Scraping Page.
> Don't skive that belt before you visit my flatbelt page!
> be nylon coated, or could I turn one from a piece of nylon bar)
> >
> > The site doesn't go through the steps of using the steelgrip type of
> > belt clip.
> > 
> > The ones I have are "Alligator" brand steel belt lacing.  Can't see
> > what swamp it comes from on the box.  U. S. patents go back to 1909.
> > 
> > As well as the steel lacing, there's a spacer rod to be temporarily
> > inserted at the very end of the belt so that it contacts that and the
> > inside of the curve in the longer set of teeth.
> > 
> > You snap off a section of teeth, and place your square cut (yes, use a
> > square) belt end on a flat surface (table saw he whispered) with the
> > cross piece facing up, teeth spaced so that they don't line up too
> > close to either belt side. The longer teeth will be going out in front
> > of the belt end, and down under it. The spacer rod (probably 3/16 or
> > so in width for the smaller clips) is inserted, then the teeth are
> > hammered into the belting.
> > 
> > The secton of the clip that you have on the top--the one with the
> > cross piece that holds all of the teeth together--will be facing
> > outside the pulley. So if you want leather smooth side in, make sure
> > you account for this as you proceed.
> > 
> > Probably be prepared for a couple of practice attempts.  But it really
> > is doable without any clipper machine.
> > 
> > The Allegator clips come with pins that are split.  Each half round
> > pin has serrations that line up between clip teeth to keep the pin
> > from coming off. This shouldn't be a necessary component, however.
> > 
> > Often leather sinew is used for pins.  I have seen lots of make do
> > pins as well.  sometimes a finish nail serves as adequate, so long as
> > the head's not riding against a pulley shoulder.
> >
> > Frank Morrison

Modern Drive belt manufacturers have the perfect answer to the needs of flat
belt drives similar to the Southbend.  They make a composite belting with a high
tensile plastic outer and a split, grey chrome leather inside ddrive face.   The
-plasic outer absorbs shock and stretch and the inner, leather face provides an
excellent traction, even when the pulley/belt starts to get oily.

For a nominal charge the local distributot will cut the belt to width and length
for you.  He wil "skive" the ends, by grinding, ready for bonding, wrap them to
keep out dirt and give or loan you enough cement to do a first-class, on-sight
bonding, without having to disturb the headstock spindle and bearings.   A
couple of flat steel plates and "C" clamps are all that are needed to align and
clamp the skived ends.

Well worth the investment and effort on a good little lathe.

Try looking up "Habasit" in you local phone book and go chat to them.


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