From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Opinions on software Date: 2000/03/31 Message-ID: <38E4767A.56EE19E4@bellsouth.net> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass Queen Bee wrote: > I had another recommendation today for the Photoshop/Illustrator > combo. Adobe has free downloads available, so I'm going to play with > those for a bit. Thanks! Before you waste a lot of effort and money, consider a few things. I have not seen these application-specific CAD programs for stained glass but I do use a neon CAD program called Neon Wizard for making neon patterns. The applications are similar. I also use CorelDraw and Adobe Illustrator plus CAD software. What the application-specific CAD (ASC) package brings to you is the embedded design rules necessary to make the product. For making neon, for example, the Neon Wizard "knows" what the minimum bend radius of a given size tubing is and will not let me draw (or at least makes me work at it) a pattern that violates this "design rule". Another feature is that it has typefaces that look "good" when made into neon. The stained glass ASC should know the rules about lead lines, foil allowances, minimum cutting widths and the like. It also should make it easy to lay down repeating patterns such as checkerboard patterns that would have to be drawn by hand in general drawing packages. OTOH, these ASC packages are generally not the best at "drawing". You can't expect a one man or small shop product to have the refinement of drawing of, say, CorelDraw or Illustrator. I generally do my preliminary sketching and rough drawings in Corel or Illustrator, export a vector file to Neon Wizard and "neonize" it. For simple work, I then export THAT vector file back to Corel for printing or plotting because Corel's output control is much better. For more complex work, I export to a CAD package for output because the output control in CAD software is even better. This sounds kinda kludgy but it's actually easier than it sounds. While ASC packages such as Neon Wizard promote themselves as complete packages, in reality they cannot be. I viewed my purchase of Neon Wizard as buying a set of design rules implemented in software. Neon Wizard costs $1000 so obviously I didn't start out in the business buying such a package. I made a LOT of neon using CorelDraw. Even after developing (and copying from others) many tricks, making a ready-to-bend pattern for neon is tedium defined. My wife is a stained glass artist and she would agree with this for making glass patterns too. It's kinda like driving a nail with a crescent wrench - it can be done but it's certainly not the best way. Actually, drawing packages such as Corel and Illustrator are greatly inferior to true CAD packages for creating patterns that have to be dimensionally correct. The concept of dimensional accuracy has just recently been incorporated into both Corel and Illustrator and even now, the process breaks down, depending on the output device and its accompanying windoze driver. OTOH, the basic ground rule for all CAD packages is that they have to generate drawings that are dimensionally accurate to a degree suitable for actual manufacturing using takeoff measurements from the blueprint. Using a pro CAD package and an Hewlett-packard engineering plotter, for example, lines can be laid down with an absolute accuracy of +-0.001". CAD packages also have a much richer set of drawing tools (not to be confused with effects tools such as drop shadows, fountain fills and all the other bells and whistles in draw packages.) Corel and Illustrator can, for example draw ellipses, circles (special case of the ellipse) and Biezer curves. AutoCAD (and most others too) can draw true circles, ellipses to specified dimensions, cubic spline curves (much more accurate for controlled dimensioned objects), true tangent circles and curves and a wide variety of others. While one can eventually achieve a similar effect (though probably at lower accuracy) with the draw packages, one will waste a lot of time futzing with object controls to do what a CAD package does with one command. Another major issue is outputting your artwork. If your artwork is larger than the paper size of your printer/plotter, it must be tiled. While both Corel and Illustrator have some sort of tiling, it is not very accurate. Corel handles 4-way tiling OK (output to 4 sheets of paper that are trimmed and then taped together). It usually blows up at 6-way tiling and almost always blows up on 8-way (comments apply to Corel Vers 8 and below). I suspect that much of the problem is the windoze driver. CAD packages usually have the ability to bypass windoze's drivers and directly drive the output. The selection of output devices is more limited but the major ones are supported. If you do pieces of any size at all, tiling gets very tedious, even when the output goes well. Taping all those pieces of paper together is very tedious. What you really need is a large output device that can output onto architectural "D" or "E" sized paper. The traditional device is the engineering pen plotter, where the pattern is actually drawn on the paper by a computerized pen. Nowadays, the standard device is the large format engineering inkjet printer. Hewlett-Packard is the dominant player in this market. Large format inkjet printers start at $1995 and up. Way up! Fortunately for us, the older pen plotters are still perfectly useable and are dirt-cheap. I bought my HP DraftPro, an 8 color, 8 pen "D" size plotter (24" wide paper by up to about 60" long) for $80! They are widely available because of the widespread adaptation of wide format printers and because of the huge cutbacks in the defense industry. Windoze has a basic HPGL (hewlett-packard graphics language - the standard plotter language) driver but it's not very good. Draw packages have to use this driver. CAD packages almost always have a dedicated HPGL driver. It gives much finer control over the plotter's operation. Tiling is generally very well handled for plotter output. It's hard to imagine a glass panel that would require much more than 4-way tiling on a "D" (24 X 36") or "E" (36 X 48") plotter. One nifty thing about HPGL is that it consists of simple, human understandable commands such as pen up, pen down, movement and so on, in an ASCII file that can be edited with any text editor. Movement commands are in units of thousands of an inch. It is sometimes faster to make minor corrections to an HPGL file than it is to edit the drawing and then re-output. The major problem with CAD packages has traditionally been the cost. I paid $2000 for my first copy of AutoCad over 15 years ago! That problem is now gone. Nowadays, low cost ( <$100) and absolutely free, fully functional packages are available. AutoCad is the industry standard so most packages emulate AutoCad. An excellent, FREE package that emulates AutoCad is Intellicad, available from http://www.cadopia.com/. Intellicad is an interesting product. Developed and then abandoned by Visio Corp, the source code for this package was given to an open source consortium that was formed to continue supporting it. Member companies like cadopia give it away and sell upgrades and extensions or they enhance it and shrink-wrap market it. Anyway, Intellicad is a very good CAD package that is free for the price of downloading an about 13mb file. One neat thing Intellicad is that CAD applications, such as a stained glass drawing package, can be written in VBA (visual basic for applications) and incorporated into Intellicad as an extension. A motivated glass artist could fairly quickly whip out a stained-glass-specific CAD package that would rival the commercial ones. Enough of that. I recommend that before you spend a lot of money on general draw package and then spend a LOT of time trying to create stained glass patterns with same, you take a look both at Intellicad and the application-specific CAD packages previously mentioned. CorelDraw is a good product to have around for general drawing and creative work but I'd hate to have to do much pattern work in it. Adobe Illustrator is a professional illustrator package. As such, it is both expensive and has a steep learning curve and still is not a good pattern program. I use it professionally but I would not recommend it to a casual user. John From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Opinions on software Date: 2000/04/04 Message-ID: <38E9AE89.DC1F13CB@bellsouth.net> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass db wrote: > > Neon John <johngdNOSPAM@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:38E4767A.56EE19E4@bellsouth.net... > > > > The stained glass ASC should know the rules > > about lead lines, foil allowances, minimum cutting widths and the > > like. It also should make it easy to lay down repeating patterns > > such as checkerboard patterns that would have to be drawn by hand in > > general drawing packages. > > > > Yes, they should. I wonder if they do. Pattern fills in general are easy to > use in Corel and Illustrator, but they would not be stained-glass specific > unless you went to some trouble to create your own fill and save it. I guess the term "easy" is relative but I find Corel's pattern fill to be right in there with root canals. Especially when adjacent filled blocks have to register. > > >The concept of dimensional accuracy has just > > recently been incorporated into both Corel and Illustrator and even > > now, the process breaks down, depending on the output device and its > > accompanying windoze driver. > > The drawing packages are expected to product print-ready output, accurate > enough to register color plate reproduction. I've never worried too much > about dimensional accuracy. Published a (real paper) magazine for a couple of years using Corel and PageMaker so I'm still kinda bloody from the experience. In the process, I learned all about this. Trying to print the pattern to a printed circuit board and hold the tolerance to +-0.050 was a real trial-and-error trick. You must understand the distinction between accuracy and precision. A 2250dpi imagesetter has tremendous precision, better than 1 part in 2250, but its accuracy, e.g., how faithfully it reproduces a given dimension is poor. Registration between color plates only requires the imagesetter to be reproducible, and not to that great a degree. If the registration is +- the width of a hairline at the machine resolution, that's more than enough. A machine that can do that may, at the same time, have a placement accuracy (distance from the side and top of the sheet edges) as poor as 0.1". Doesn't matter on the press since the plate is moved around to center it on the press anyway, but it does matter when the pattern you're outputting has to fit dimensions created by others (such as the dimensions of a door opening.) I should also note that these imagers invariably use PostScript which is a great deal less variable than raster devices - what most of our printers are. >You have me wondering now. If its over .01 inch > innacurate, I'd like to at least know about it. I think next time I go to > the blueprint guy, I'm going to take a test drawing digital master with > precise calibration of squares and circles and stuff and have him print it > out exactly as the file states. Then take it home and measure it. Here's a way to see Corel at work. Make a 1" square. Step and repeat it across the page so that the edges of adjacent squares precisely overlap. If you zoom in as tightly as Corel will go, you will (sometimes but not always) see that the step-and-repeat was not precise, even if you use the snap function. This problem has been in Corel from the beginning to at least V8 and is an artifact of rounding errors inside the program. Then if you do this enough that it will cover 4 or more pages, the pages will NOT register most of the time. The nasty thing about rounding errors is that they sneak up on you. A dimension can be accurate in one instance and after you make a minor change, suddenly it's way off. This may or may not bother you. It bothers me in my neon work a lot since I frequently have to make my glass fit a sign frame fabricated by another shop. I suspect it will bother the stained glass artist when one has to fit the piece to an existing object such as a door. I know that the times my wife has tried to use the computer to make a pattern to fit a door opening, we had a hell of a time getting a pattern that was accurate enough without several tries. and that was using a plotter, which is much more accurate than my Canon printer. > >Movement commands are in units of thousands of an > > inch. It is sometimes faster to make minor corrections to an HPGL > > file than it is to edit the drawing and then re-output. > > geek > > > One neat thing Intellicad is that CAD applications, such as a > > stained glass drawing package, can be written in VBA (visual basic > > for applications) and incorporated into Intellicad as an extension. > > A motivated glass artist could fairly quickly whip out a > > stained-glass-specific CAD package that would rival the commercial > > ones. > > > > major geek Well yeah :-) But which route do you suspect would produce a better application - one written by a programmer trying to understand stained glass or a glass artist who taught him/herself enough programming to make it happen? I operate in both areas and I'll bet on the artist, if the application is built to run inside one of these CAD packages. Now the REAL geeks are those who wrote applications in AutoCad's Forth language. > > > Enough of that. I recommend that before you spend a lot of money on > > general draw package and then spend a LOT of time trying to create > > stained glass patterns with same, you take a look both at Intellicad > > and the application-specific CAD packages previously mentioned. > > CorelDraw is a good product to have around for general drawing and > > creative work but I'd hate to have to do much pattern work in it. > > Adobe Illustrator is a professional illustrator package. As such, > > it is both expensive and has a steep learning curve and still is not > > a good pattern program. I use it professionally but I would not > > recommend it to a casual user. > > I agree that Illustrator isn't a pattern making tool by design, but I still > recommend everyone try PhotoShop and Illustrator, or the Corel Suite. > There's others too. Just because they're fun to fool around with. Get a > digital sketch pad and draw stuff. Whip up a design in Photoshop with paint > brushes and layers and scans of pieces of glass, squish it around, add a > filter to it, warp it . Send it out to Illustrator, trace it, outline it in > black, just fool around. I agree with that part about fun to play with but! You're talking about a sack-full of money to go out and buy Corel and Illustrator. The demos are pretty worthless. I guess used copies are an option. Yeah, I know a lot of people bootleg these programs but I'm not going to recommend that plus you really need the factory manual to learn these programs, IMHO. John |
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