From: John De Armond
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: Couldn't take out of park position
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:32:48 -0500

"Steph and Dud B." wrote:
>
> Sounds like that fuse protects the brake light circuit, which is also tied
> in to your trailer brake controller and cruise control.  You're right - you
> would not have trailer brakes with that fuse blown.  Now you need to isolate
> the cause fo the blown fuse.  Get a couple of those spare fuses and try
> hooking up your TT again.  Wiggle the cords and connector a bit.  Check the
> brake lights after plugging in.  If OK, then manually apply your trailer
> brakes thru the brake controller knob and check again.  If still OK, drive a
> short distance and apply brakes with the brake pedal.  If the problem seems
> to be in the connector, you may have corrosion inside causing a short.  Good
> luck.

I'm going to guess from the way he described the failure that the
circuit is simply overloaded, especially if the brake controller is
taking power from the tail light circuit.  Only way to know for sure
is to measure the current in the problem circuit.

BTW, Hi-50, the problem you had was that the safety nazi-mandated
transmission lock was inactivated by the blown fuse.  This is a
solenoid, usually under the console, that keeps the shifter from
working unless you comply - ape like - with a designated set of
maneuvers, usually applying the brake with the switch in "run".  The
solution is to remove (not merely unhook) this solenoid.  That way
you can never be caught in traffic again with your transmission
locked out.  Imagine had that door popped open and you stopped in a
busy intersection!

On the various cars I've removed them on, the solenoid has always
been located under the console on the shifter arm mechanism.  Some
vehicles (don't know about your truck) use a mechanical cable from
the ign switch to the console.  Either way it works the same -
blocking the transmission selector from moving.  Yank it out and be
done with it.

John

> --
> Dudley (http://members.aol.com/stephndudb/rv.html)
> "Camping" in 5000 pounds of stick and tin.
>
> <hi-50@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> news:c4n69to7pe8ois6r86tck24a2ro39slrdk@4ax.com...
> > This past Sun. got the 31' HR ready, hooked it up to 1998 Ford Club
> > Wagon V-10.  Checked rear tail lights, stop lights, four-way flasher
> > and left/right turn signals.  All checked OK.
> > Drove about 1/4 mile, stopped to throw trash bags in dumpster.  Drove
> > about 25 feet and noticed trailer door came open.  Put trans in park,
> > got out, secured door and returned to van.  Tried to put in drive and
> > lever would not get out of park.  Two hours later, with help by two
> > others, after rocking van, etc. still could not take out of park.
> > Called AAA, no mechanics available in small town of Yreka.  So had to
> > drag van away from trailer (gravel and water did it).  Towed trailer
> > back to site (ranch truck), and on Mon. morning called Yreka Ford
> > dealer.  Service mech. said click ignition three clicks just before
> > start mode.  That did it.  Started in neutral.  Decided to leave
> > trailer for next time afraid connecter faulty (no trailer brakes?) and
> > started drive south to San Jose, stopping at nearby Yreka Ford dealer.
> > While driving there noticed I had no cruise control.  When I told this
> > to service tech he said I also did not have stop light and the problem
> > was blown fuse.  Checked owners manual, found blown fuse, replaced and
> > now was able to take out of park position, had stop lights and cruise
> > worked.
> > Now, could trailer elec. connector possible blown fuse?  And why?  Or
> > maybe it was just time for fuse to blow?  Was it wise not to tow?  (I
> > had 4 little grand kids)  Mostly scared trailer brakes would not work.
> > Plus nasty weather all the way south.
> > Thank you for listening and any help greatly appreciated.
> > Eddie in San Jose