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Subject: Re: '68 Rivie GS Brake Lights
Date: Saturday, Sep 19 1992 18:50:05
From: John De Armond

>types, a Delco and a BMP ... the Delco is $47 and the BMP is *GASP* $113!! 
>I'll have to double check the part, but I don't think it's the Delco in my car
>(of course).
>So ... off to the salvage yard I go!  That is unless anyone else has a better

I have a nasty habit of remanufacturing that kind of stuff.  If the nylon
is worn or broken, drilling a few small holes in the worn surface for
adhesion and then rebuilding it with epoxy/fiberglass works well.  
Contacts can usually be rebuilt if the metal can be removed.  A drop of
silver solder followed by a replating with copper and then silver using
Cool-Amp (a rub-on silver plate) works wonders.  if the metal contact
cannot be removed, solder followed by copper plating works well.

I guess I got my start at this as a result of acute sticker shock at 
Datsun's price for the ignition switch/head lamp cluster for the 


From: John De Armond
X-Source: The Hotrod Mailing list
Subject: Re: electronic ignition
Date: Friday, Jul 17 1992 20:42:35
X-Sequence: 1672

> I checked the prices of Chrysler and GM electronic ignition modules at
>Wal-Mart today.  Both are $15.  The Chrysler unit looks like it needs a
>proprietary pigtail plug to be useful; the GM will take ordinary spade
>connectors.  Unfortunately, the spade connectors would probably corrode
>if the unit is mounted externally.

I approach this one of two ways.  One way is to solder wires to the chrysler
pins, bring the pigtails to a small Amphenol circular connector and
pot the interconnect in RTV.  Generally limited to when I can find surplus
Amphenol connectors.  The second method is to fabricate a connector
from crimp-on connectors from individual components and either RTV
or preferably, use a two part silicone potting compound.  My local electronics
supply house stocks crimp-on female round connectors that will push
down on the pins. (Austin Electronics, or as we call it "Lloyd's of
Atlanta" after the owner, Lloyd Carver.)  The technique is to spray
the inside of the connector with silicone spray or if you have it,
silicone mold release, push the pigtailed sockets down on the
pins and pack the connector with the potting compound.  When cured,
the assembly can be pulled off.  This technique makes a very waterproof
connector, particularly if you lap the potting compound over the lip
a bit.

I usually just solder to the GM module.  too much trouble to come up with


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