From: Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Ed Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: CLP Break Free -- what is it?
Keywords: cleaning, Break Free
Date: 11 Aug 90 00:05:11 GMT

In article <8020@orca.wv.tek.com> cash@convex.com (Peter Cash) writes:
>I recently bought a can of CLP Break Free. It's an aerosol that's
>advertised as being a cleaner, lubricant, and a protective coating for gun
>metal. Sounds too good to be true, doesn't it?
>
>What is this stuff? (It looks frothy and yellow--uck.) Should I be putting
>it on my guns? Down the bore? In the lockwork?

This stuff was developed for the military as an all-purpose cleaner,
lubricant and preservative for weapons, and replaced 20-some different
federal stock numbers, being used for everything from cannon bore
cleaner on down. It is a synthetic diester oil base with a DuPont
Teflon additive, and is available in several viscosity grades suitable
for different temperature ranges. It is a very effective lubricant,
will also neutralize the corrosive effects of blackpowder and chlorate
primers. It will also protect guns against complete saltwater immersion
for short periods. I have never seen anything better for cleaning the
encrusted carbon from automatic weapons. Just coat the part, let it
soak overnight, and wipe off. If you clean and lubricate with the stuff
fouling seems to build up less in future use. All the various grades of
CLP come under the specification Mil-L-63460, and you may see it with
the suffix letters A through D, depending upon temperature range and
viscocity. The only drawback I have seen with this is that when using
it in the bores of sniper rifles or target rifles where you require
precise first-shot accuracy, you should clean it out of the bore with
Hoppes, Shooter's Choice, or Mil-C-372B, as the teflon is persistent
and causes fliers in your groups until the bore settles into a uniform
condition. This is also VERY noticable with .22 rimfire rifles, but is
not a significant factor in handguns or military type semi-autos which
are not used for competition. The fliers might be enough to miss a 300
yard wooodchuck, but not a deer sized animal. It is a good product.

--

	Ed Harris at The Black Cat's Shack (Fidonet 1:109/401)
	Internet:  Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org
	UUCP:      ...!uunet!blkcat!417.0!Ed.Harris

From: Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Ed Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Solvents for corrosive primers
Keywords: cleaning
Date: 22 Aug 90 16:23:54 GMT

Of the commercial gun cleaners on the market, the most effective in
neutralizing the potassium chloride salts from the corrosive primers
are the water-based blackpowder cleaners such as Hoppe's Nine Plus or
Black Solve, or WWII-era GI rifle bore cleaner. Also effective is Break
Free CLP, which is virtually the same as the military all-purpose
cleaner-lubricant-preservative identified by Mil-L-63460. The military
CLP is required to be effective against chlorate primers because most
cal. .50 ammunition in the inventory is pre-1954 manufacture, and all
artillery ammunition contains a black powder booster. If you can find
any GI bore cleaner under the Spec. Mil-C-372B, this will also be
effective.  I like to slobber my guns out with GI bore cleaner at the
range while they are still warm, first with a wet patch, then a bronze
brush for about six passes, then two more wet patches. After I get home
I repeat the process and store it muzzle down, and do it again the
third day, then wipe dry and oil if I will not be using the gun again
for over a week. If anticipating using it again, I just wipe it out
with another wet patch, and leave it to soak until I dry it at the
range.  When all else fails, you can use the tried and true soap and
water treatment, which is very effective if you use hot sudsy water,
and then oil, and repeat the process on two subsequent days to ensure
you get it ALL out. Also clean the bolt face and inside the gas system
well!

--

	Ed Harris at The Black Cat's Shack (Fidonet 1:109/401)
	Internet:  Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org
	UUCP:      ...!uunet!blkcat!417.0!Ed.Harris

From: Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Ed Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Break Free
Keywords: lubrication, cleaning, Break Free
Date: 1 Oct 90 21:13:14 GMT

In article <9049@orca.wv.tek.com> rickf@callao.wv.tek.com (Rick
Faltersack) writes:

>I've seen repeated mention of Break Free (tm) as a preferred
>lubricant and cleaner.  Does this stuff lubricate better than
>regular ol' light machine oil? (Such as good ol' 3-in-1, or the
>stuff from Gunk for $.89 a can.)  Does it penetrate and clean
>better than WD-40?  The combination of WD40 and Gunk's light

Yes to all of your previous questions.  Break Free is a better cleaner
for encrusted, hardened fouling on automatic weapon mechanisms than
your run of the mill bore cleaners.  It will neutralize chlorate primer
residue and black powder - this is part of the specification, becausew
Mil-L-63460 is used as cannon bore clenaer and all artillery rounds
have blackpowder igniters.  It is not particularly effective on heavy
metal fouling, but dissolves powder fouling better than anything.  It
is also safer to use than WD-40, which caused problems with stress
corrosion cracking of stainless when I was at Ruger, and we wouldn't
have the stuff in the shop.  WD-40 is bad news and I would not use it!
Break Free is better than anything else I have used in protecting
weapons against salt water exposure.  I have used it to coat M16 rifles
and M60 MGs which were subjected to complete saltwater immersion, and
nothing else is even close.  When they adopted CLP they replaced 27
different FSN's with this material.  It works, and is worth the price
to me.

--

   	Ed Harris, Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org
   	via The Black Cat's Shack's FidoNet<->Usenet Gateway
	    blkcat.fidonet.org   and   Fidonet 1:109/401

From: Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Ed Harris)
Subject: Cleaning After Chlorate Primers
Date: 26 Dec 90 23:10:18 GMT
Organization: FidoNet node 1:109/417.0 - Silver Bullet, Frank Mallory

I have shot thousands of rounds of this stuff in testing, and still 
think the best method is to clean with hot soapy water while the barrel 
is still warm, then to follow afterwards with a water-displacing oil. 
This is inconvenient, so there are other methods which are acceptable.
GI bore cleaner and CLP are required by specification to be able to 
remove chlorate primer residue.  I normally clean with GI bore cleaner 
while at the range, using a wet patch, then wet-brush a dozen strokes, 
and follow with three wet patches and let the rifle soak until I get 
home.  Wipe the bolt face too.  When I get home I repeat the process, 
then dry and oil.  You can also use any good blackpowder bore cleaner 
or Break Free CLP.  In a humid climate it is a good idea to check on 
yourself a few days after and to clean again.  



--  

        Ed Harris, Ed.Harris@p0.f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org
      via The Black Cat's Shack's FidoNet<->Usenet Gateway
          blkcat.fidonet.org   and   Fidonet 1:109/401