III. Firearms Information by Type
     B. Revolvers
        3. "What to Look for in Buying a Revolver"

By Kirk Hayes (hays@SSD.intel.com)

Well, here's a list of some things I look for when buying a used
revolver.  I collect S&W revolvers, so it is, somewhat, specific to
S&W.

However, most of this applies to any revolver.

I've got 20 years experience buying used revolvers, and, yes, I've
bought a dud or twenty over the years.  Remember that it is rarely
worthwhile to buy a damaged gun, thinking you'll get it fixed.
It's cheaper to buy new than to buy damaged.

On the other hand, easily repaired damage can be used as a
negotiating point.

Finally, don't be afraid to walk away - let someone else buy the
bad ones.

Before you start, make sure the weapon is unloaded, and ask
permission to dry-fire it.  Observe all safety rules.

1.  Is the yoke bent?

Look at the yoke (aka "crane") when the cylinder is in the closed
position.  The gap between the frame and the yolk should be very
narrow, and the same width top to bottom.

A bent yoke can be caused by a number of things, the most common of
which is "flipping" the cylinder closed, as seen in the movies.

A bent yolk can be fixed, but it is rarely worthwhile.

2.  Look at the hole in the frame through which the bolt extends.
Is it burred or oversized?

Again, can be fixed, is not usually worthwhile.

3.  Look at the topstrap above the forcing cone.  Is it flame cut
excessively?

I regard flame cutting that is more than 2/3 the width of the
topstrap as excessive.

4.  Look at the firing pin hole.  Is it peened out?

This is a minor repair if not too excessive, and not repaired
before.

5.  Point the weapon in a safe direction.  Cock the hammer, and,
with your finger off the trigger, press forward on the hammer spur.

If the hammer falls, put the gun down and walk away.

6.  Repeat the following for each chamber.

        1.  Cock the gun using the hammer, slowly.  Does the bolt
            lock up when the hammer goes to full cock?
        2.  Is the cylinder gap excessive (take feeler gauges)?  Is
            it the same for each chamber.
        3.  Is there excessive slop fore-and-aft?
        4.  Does the hammer move to the rear any further as the
            trigger is pulled?
        5.  Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?

7.  Repeat six (6) while holding a thumb lightly against the
cylinder.

8.  Repeat the following for each chamber.

        1.  Cock the gun using the trigger, slowly.  Does the bolt
            lock up before the hammer falls?
        2.  Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?

9.  Repeat step eight (8) with the revolver inverted.  This will
get you strange looks, many times, but shows up problems that might
otherwise be missed.

10.  Repeat step eight (8) with a thumb riding lightly on the
cylinder.

11.  Is the revolver cylinder scored excessively between the bolt
holes?

12.  Is the cylinder star damaged in any way?  Pay particular
attention to the cams the hand pushes on.  Look at the hand for
damage.  Push the ejector rod as far back as it will go - did it
bind, or is it bent?  Are the star locator pins present and
unbent/unbroken?  Is the knurling on the ejector rod unblemished?

13.  If you are lucky enough to have a timing rod, which is a piece
of precision-ground steel that will fit down the bore, check to be
sure each chamber aligns with the bore, cocking the hammer to lock
the cylinder with the bolt.

14.  Look at the sideplate screws.  If burred, walk away unless you
feel lucky.

I generally ask, if the screws are burred, for the sideplate to be
removed, but this is an entire subject area by itself...

15.  Run your thumb and forefinger down the barrel - you're looking
for bumps and rings.

16.  Look down the bore.  Use a borescope if you have it, a piece
of white cloth or your thumbnail at the recoil plate, whatever
you've got to get light in the bore.  Be very suspicious if the
bore is dirty, as a dirty bore can cover a multitude of sins.  If
it is dirty, ask to have it cleaned.

Looks for pits, rust, rings, etc.

Look at the forcing cone for splits and erosion.

17.  Examine the chambers for damage - flame cutting, bulges
(particularly under the bolt holes), dents, corrosion.

18.  Examine the sights for damage - look for "square" with the
rest of the gun.

19.  Examine the firing pin tip.  A chipped one can be repaired,
easily.

20.  Examine the finish, markings, etc.  A non-even surface,
rounded edges where they should be sharp, or washed out markings
can be evidence of a refinished gun.  Ask.

21.  I'm sure I've forgotten something, so feel free to contribute,
everybody...

--
Kirk Hays - NRA Life, seventh generation.
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to
do nothing."  -- Edmund Burke (1729-1797)

From: hays@SSD.intel.com (Kirk Hays)
Subject: Re: How to check the timing on a revolver?
Organization: Intel Supercomputer Systems Division

In article <2948325191.7.p00302@psilink.com>, p00302@psilink.com (Julius
Chang) writes:

|> #6.  Repeat the following for each chamber.
|> #
|> #	1.  Cock the gun using the hammer, slowly.  Does the bolt
|> #	    lock up when the hammer goes to full cock?
|> #	2.  Is the cylinder gap excessive (take feeler gauges)?  Is
|> #	    it the same for each chamber.
|>
|> 	For those of us who don't know what to look for, can you
|> 	clarify what constitutes an excessive gap?  It seems like a
|> 	safe assumption that one wants to see a uniform gap for each
|> 	chamber, but you do not make that 100% clear.  Please clarify
|> 	exactly what is the desired outcome for your various tests.

A uniform gap is most important.  Excessive gap, particularly combined
with fore-and-aft slop, can often be easily and cheaply shimmed.

The amount of gap varies from gun to gun, and there is no one good
figure.  It's an experience thing, and I generally "eyeball" it, anyway.

|>
|> #	3.  Is there excessive slop fore-and-aft?
|>
|> 	Can you clarify what excessive slop is?  Is there an acceptable
|> 	amount of slop that one can tolerate?  Fore and aft movement
|> 	of what?  Under what conditions?  Hammer cocked, trigger
|> 	partially pulled, doesn't matter?

Ideally, the cylinder should be "tight" with no movement possible when
the hammer is cocked.  In reality, this is rarely acheived.  The exact
amount is difficult to quantify, as it varies from model to model, and
for guns of different ages.  It depends on what you want the gun for,
also.

|>
|> #	4.  Does the hammer move to the rear any further as the
|> #	    trigger is pulled?
|>
|> 	An obvious YES or NO answer here.  But which answer
|> 	says "this is a good gun"?  There are some other YES/NO items
|> 	that are similarly unclear.  Can you clarify your criteria
|> 	and repost?  Thanks.

The cocked hammer moving to the rear is a sign of a gun that was either
incorrectly manufactured, or badly gunsmithed.  Walk away.

I apologize for anything unclear, as I was quickly putting down what I
find important, much of which is subjective, and all of which is
colored by my experiences.

--
Kirk Hays - NRA Life, seventh generation.
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to
do nothing."  -- Edmund Burke (1729-1797)