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From: Dave Baker
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Fly cutters
Date: 12 Mar 1999 11:33:44 GMT

The trick with fly cutters is to have a really sturdy bar. For my block and
head resurfacing I made a split bush about 3.5" O/D which clamps round the
bottom of the quill. A 2" x 1" x 10" bar then bolts under that. Much sturdier
than relying on an R8 taper. I then made a small attachment which locks into
the bar which holds a standard carbide lathe turning insert at the same angle
as the lathe tool held it originally. Now no more resharpening - just pop a new
tip on every few months. Essential to use a razor edge non-ferrous tip though
for fly cutting aluminium and cast iron. Most inserts are round edge for use on
steel. Look for "silver" coloured non ferrous tips from your tool merchant
rather than the black or gold ones.

Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England)  - specialist flow
development and engine work. .

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